Saturday, December 13, 2008

November 18, 2004

Independence is home in St. Thomas. We arrived after an uneventful six day passage from Bermuda. The previous month was much more exciting … let me bring you up to date!


Heading into tropical storm Nicole.We left Newport on October 6th with a great weather forecast, it was freezing (to us) but the sun was shining and it was time for the warm-weather sailors to head south. There was a funny little low sitting near Bermuda but we were sure it would go away before we got there. Well, it didn't, did anyone hear about Tropical Storm Nicole? We got to know her well; fortunately it was after our crossing of the Gulf Stream. Seas tend to be high there at the best of times! We were warned to head west and wait for the storm to pass; it is very hard to give up hard earned easting, (remember … we travel at about 7 or 8 miles an hour!) but we hove to (like jogging in place) for about 12 hours as Nicole slowly moved by. Although, we had about 20 foot seas and winds between 30 and 40 knots, Independence rode it out like the lady she is; she always takes such good care of us.


We were very glad to arrive in Bermuda after about three and a half days of big seas and shifting winds. Nothing broke and the crew was fine so we got some good stories out of our experience. Even though it was a rough trip we are so glad we left when we did … it only got colder and windier and the boats that left after us all had stories to tell as well!

New canvas dodger keeps us dry.Bermuda was wonderful; we cruised the small islands around the harbour of Hamilton this time. We spent a week in Paradise Lake on a borrowed storm mooring - winds to 50 miles per hour this time! It has been an amazing summer and fall for weather. If we had to be stuck somewhere for a week at least we were in the perfect spot. Paradise Lake is almost landlocked by 3 small islands; there are a few lovely Bermudian cottages, birds, tons of fish and turtles to watch and no matter how hard it blows there is no sea and we got protection from the islands from most of the wind. Our only concern was when the owner of the mooring would change his mind and want his mooring for his own boat! We got caught up on our reading, played cards and built a canvas dodger that will keep water from finding its way down our main hatch. After a week of being marooned on board we were glad to move on to the old Royal Naval Dockyard. It is now a marina, cruise ship dock, museum and shopping mall. We took on fuel (almost $5 a gal!!!) and water, and spent several days exploring.

Bermuda has a terrific ferry and bus system so it is easy to get around. We ferried into Hamilton for shopping and flu shots, no shortage there so we took advantage! Our friends and fellow Red Hook day-sailors on High Pockets have been our mentors in Bermuda; they have been coming for years and know it well. They took us dinghy touring to tiny hidden harbours and miniature beaches, and showed us the short cut between St. Georges and Hamilton. I am glad we had a leader because some of the passages are NARROW and just barely deep enough! I think we could go back a dozen times and still find another beach or island to explore. Bermuda is a lovely pocket-sized paradise with very friendly inhabitants. We stayed for three weeks this trip … next time longer!

Our weather window to leave came much too quickly - time flies when we are having fun. We had just enough time for one last delicious dinner ashore at the Carriage House in St. George, and last farewells to friends. We completed clearance formalities and received permission to go through Town Cut - granted by Bermuda Harbour Radio. No more excuses, so we left - bound for home - at noon on November 2nd … Election Day!

High Pockets was right behind us and we both enjoyed good weather for this leg of our journey. We arrived the following Monday in time for a week of rain, the cistern at the house is nice and full! We are back on our mooring and once again available for full and half day charters. We've done several trips this week and it is great to be out in our home waters. It is warm, the sun has been shining, the water is gorgeous, our wonderful trade winds are blowing and the sailing has been great. If you are headed our way we'd love for you to join us.

Fair winds - Pat and Pieter

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